Hi, all - my name is Reese, and I am living in London, England, for the next four months. Under the urging of several people, I have decided to document my experiences through the magic of Blogger. The official reason for why I'm in the United Kingdom will crop up every now and then, but for the most part, the focus of this blog will be on the sights, smells, tastes, and experiences of a first-time ex-pat (or quasi-ex, if you prefer) who has already done the touristy things associated with the city -- Big Ben, Buckingham Palace, the Tower, etc. More specifically, I will give my impressions of English food, beer, lifestyle, and overall culture from the eyes of a kid from the US who has a taste for delicious food and beverages as well as a near-insatiable thirst for understanding historical and contemporary material conditions (also, beer).
In short, I will endeavor to try something new and British (near) every day, and share my thoughts and experiences with you, the reader. By "something British", I will take it to be something quintessentially identified with or only available in the British Isles. In other words, I will tend to avoid writing about things such as Cadbury chocolate or Newcastle, and strive toward things like toad in the hole or a regional brew. Additionally, one of my flatmates, a native Englishwoman, has volunteered to instruct me in the near-alchemic processes of cooking -- in other words, be afraid.
And now, with the statement of purpose out of the way, I should start sharing. While I've been here since late Saturday, I hadn't really eaten or drank anything that fits my previously established criteria of "something British". However, after today, I feel that my first post should be about my first English pub experience.
In Holborn, London, there sits a pub called The Swan, which belongs to a family of pubs owned by Taylor Walker (which has apparently been in business under various names since 1730). The company emphasizes and strives to provide the authentic British pub experience [that it cleverly and conveniently did not explicate or elaborate upon] and the pub itself was warmly decorated around an ornate, standing-only bar. It was hardly rustic, but was certainly welcoming. Upon entry, I saw that the process for ordering was to get a drink a bar first (nice touch) then decide what to eat and order at the bar.
At the risk of sounding unoriginal, I opted for the classic (or is it hackneyed?) fish and chips, which came a side of green peas. When ordering, I learned that the traditional English way of taking peas was not whole, but rather, smashed or "mushy", so I settled on that. Since I was in for the traditional dish, I felt I should go all in and select an English pale ale. So, the first beer I selected was a Tribute Cornish Pale Ale, which was precisely what I needed. As an unabashed pale ale fan, I relished its zesty freshness as I settled before a television program/me on Canterbury Cathedral hosted by the now former Archbishop of Canterbury (not to be too excessively British or anything). Admittedly, the solemnity of Williams' closed-captioned exposition was somewhat offset by the blaring lyrics of "Don't Phunk with my Heart."
I finished the Tribute as my food arrived, and ordered another bitter, the Sussex Best Bitter from Harvey. While I had no complaints about the Tribute, I appreciated the aftertaste of the Harvey, as it reminded me of the spice associated with Belgian white beers. As for the dish itself, the mushy peas were, well, mushy peas. All the pea taste with the same pea flavor, just with a texture quite like mashed potatoes. The fish itself was not bad, though I must confess as I grow older, I feel I'm growing more averse to the taste of deep-fried batter. Still, I was raised close enough to the American South that I'll always say batter is better. The chips were fairly standard pub chips, thick but not so much as American steak fries. The portion was perfect, enough to fill one up without completely stuffing him. (Though, given my bulk, arguments can differ on that point.) Overall, though, a highly enjoyable first venture into British gastronomy.
Following the meal, I decided to enjoy a non-Newcastle brown ale to round out the visit. I selected a Hackney Southern brown ale, which was enjoyable though fairly unremarkable. Perhaps it's due to my rather uncultured taste buds, but the quality of brown ales is harder for me to discern, though I will rarely say no to one. I spent the rest of my time at the pub sipping my beer and watching a British game show wherein graduates of prestigious universities are pitted against each other in a quiz bowl-like competition. What was most fascinating was the fact that the contestants were fairly high-profile individuals, such as the author of "The Boy with the Striped Pyjamas" and local politicians and newscasters. Rather like Celebrity Jeopardy except with questions commensurate with the education of the contestants rather than their (relative) "star" power. Gotta love the little differences.
That should about do it for my first post. Tune in soon for further food, drink, and observation. And please, send suggestions.
Glad you are settling in. Look forward to your posts & photos!!
ReplyDeleteLove Aunt K